Wind W 1-2 Sunny then grey

We left Colonsay at 6am to catch the tide through Islay sound.

We reached this scenic stretch of water between Jura and Islay at 8am. Good timing gave us speeds of 8- 9 knots with nearly no wind. We wriggled in and out of the coast slightly to take photos of some of the whisky distilleries.

We arrived at the marina in Port Ellen just after midday in time for some lunch on board.

There are 9 working distilleries on Islay with two more opening in the next couple of years. We had tried, over several days, to book a tour around a distillery within walking or bus distance from Port Ellen. They were all fully booked.

We decided on a walk along the coast road towards the nearest 3 distilleries. Stopping at the second one, Lagavulin, for a wee dram, we chose the whisky of the day because it had been chosen by Craig (Sue’s eldest son is also called Craig). It was an 8 year old single malt. Richard quite liked it, not too peaty. We had it with some water.

We had a lovely evening meal in Port Ellen at the Seasalt Bistro.

Wind W 1 Bright then grey

After a leisurely breakfast we departed from a very calm, serene, Port Ellen, Islay.

We had again timed our departure around the tides. They are quite fierce around Rathlin, running at 6 knots during spring tides. The seas were suddenly quite lumpy as we approached the North west side, due to the over falls.

Once we were around the corner the sea flattened and we had an easy approach into the harbour and marina.

After lunch we wandered across the Island to the East Lighthouse, on Altacarry head. It was built in 1856.

Below the lighthouse is a ‘Bruce’s cave’ where Robert the Bruce allegedly hid in 1306. A spider encouraged him to return to Scotland to win the Battle of Bannockburn. The saying ‘If at once you don’t succeed, try, try again’ originates from the spider story. There are several Bruce’s caves in Scotland according to this amusing BBC article about a cave in Gretna. https://www.bbc.co.uk/scotland/education/as/warsofindependence/info.shtml?loc=cave1

We wandered back to the harbour and enjoyed our first pint of Guinness on our journey around Britain. The first of many in Northern Ireland.

We liked Rathlin Island. We were expecting it to be a remote nature reserve, but it was very friendly, with a cafe, shop, hotel and pub. We had discussed whether to stay another day.

Winds W 1 Sunny start, cloud later

Quite a lot of rain went through overnight, and with a bright morning we were looking forward to another leisurely motor sail over to Glenarm on the East coast of Northern Ireland. After breakfast Richard started the engine and………….

Very similar symptoms to when we had engine trouble in Lowestoft during week 4. Fortunately the harbour lady knew someone who could take a look at it. He eventually found a loose wire going to the relay.

Once the engine had been mended it was late afternoon. We had time for a shorter walk rather than the bike ride we had hoped to do. The walk again became slightly elongated because of Richard’s now banned Pocket Earth online map. We lost the ‘easy’ path and had to climb over wobbly dry stone walls to find the road.

Another Guinness in McCuaig’s bar was very much needed before an evening meal aboard Captiva.

Wind ENE 2 Grey

The engine started first time and we left Rathlin at 9am. We left the harbour and encountered a large pod of common dolphins.

We managed some proper sailing and arrived in Glenarm for a late lunch.

There was a strange sea effect as we approached the harbour. A line across the water marking an area of much darker and browner sea, with yellow foam. Apparently the water from the rivers runs over peat, and, especially after lots of rain, causes the sea to be this deep brown colour. A relief that it wasn’t pollution after the way water companies have been behaving.

After lunch we walked to nearby Glenarm Castle Gardens. Dating from the 18th century, the walled garden is in the grounds of Glenarm Castle, the ancestral home of the McDonnell family, Earls of Antrim. It was a lovely garden, with extremely straight yew hedges bordered by cottage garden style planting. There was also a lovely woodland walk.

After exploring we retired to the cafe for a cuppa and delicious strawberry and black forest gateaux. A lovely afternoon.

This was followed by our now obligatory pint of guinness before an evening meal on board Captiva

Wind NNE 1-2 Grey

We left Glenarm at 9:30 for a gentle motor sail to Bangor in Belfast Lough.

We arrived in time for lunch and a quick shower. Richard had time for a quick hair cut before we met up with Judy, Richard’s Aunt.

Judy took us by car to her home in North County Down. It was the first time we had been in a car for 9 weeks.

We had a scrumptious afternoon tea and evening meal with Judy, Tony, Penny, Felicity and a menagerie of dogs and cats. It was great catching up, as we hadn’t seen them since 2017. Thank you all very much, was really great seeing you. Sorry we forgot to take any photographs.

The weather forecast was for it to remain dry so we tackled the laundry. We hung out the washing around the rails and sheets (ropes) of the boat and wandered to Asda for a major food stock up. As we struggled out of the supermarket with our bags of shopping we were disconcerted to find wet pavements and grey skies. The Met Office had really let us down. We retreated to the boat, unloaded our purchases and grabbed the washing and rehung most of it inside the boat.

At 12:30 we met up with Nigel and Joan. Richard worked with Nigel at Cable and Wireless. We had lunch in Bangor before being driven to Mount Stewart, a National Trust property. It is a 19th Century house and garden on the east shore of Strangford Lough, County Down. It was the Irish seat of the Stewart family, the Marquesses of Londonderry.

We had a lovely walk around the house and gardens with our very knowledgeable tour guides, Nigel and Joan.

We were then taken to Portaferry, at the mouth of Strangford Lough.

The little car ferry took us over to Strangford where we had a delicious meal in the Cuam restaurant. Our chauffeur (Nigel) then drove us back to Bangor marina.

We had a really fantastic day, thank you Nigel and Joan.

Winds SE (straight from Peel) Grey and wet

We left Bangor Nortern Ireland at 8:30. We had a lovely sail along the Northern Irish coast until we had passed the Copelands. We then turned South East for the Isle of Man.

The Copeland Islands

Of course as soon as we turned South East, the wind did the same. We then had 9 hours of battling lumpy seas and 20-30mph winds on the nose. With clever tacking we kept a reasonable pace but had to do extra mileage.

We arrived too late to enter the marina at Peel so picked up a mooring in the harbour entrance at 8:30pm. A 12 hour journey that we had hoped to do in 9 hours.

Outside Peel harbour, Isle of Man

Amazing Maisie after enduring a 12 hour sail.

Winds SW 2 Grey and wet

We left Loch a Choire at 9:30am, in grey drizzly weather. The forecast for this week seemed to be light winds and wet weather.

The village of Lochaline is on the Morvern peninsula on the sound of Mull. Morvern covers an area of 250 square miles but has a population of just over 300. Aline means beautiful, so beautiful loch, which it was. The yacht harbour was very friendly and keen to offer advice on the local shop and eateries (2 cafes, 1 restaurant and a social club serving pizzas).

As we walked into the village we passed the origin of the slight rumbling sound we noticed in the harbour. Between the pontoons and the village is a Silica Sand mine. The entrance to the mine feels very cold as you walk past. It is cut into a layer of white sandstone that is 99.8% quartz (silica SiO₂ ). It was opened during the second world war when pure silica was needed to make periscope lenses and gunsights. The pure quartz is now used for high quality glassware, solar glass and silicon carbide abrasives.

After a quick (second) lunch, Sue couldn’t resist a venison burger, we wandered around the loch. We had noticed ruined Ardtornish castle on the headland as we entered Loch Aline but it was too far to walk to. We walked instead to Ardtornish house and boathouse. The gardens are open to the public (mornings only) but the house has been divided into apartments. There is also privately owned Kinlochaline castle nearby. All were part of the Ardtornish estate.

A lovely walk followed by a beer and pizza in the social club.

Wind SE 1-2 Grey grey grey

Tobermory is on the island of Mull. There are many quirky shops, pubs and restaurants. Near to the harbour is an aquarium and a whisky distillery, a veritable metropolis. We planned to spend one night at Tobermory so wandered along the seafront and out towards the lighthouse.

We booked an evening meal in the cosy Tobermory Hotel. Delicious meal and friendly service.

Due to a change to the weather forecast on Sunday we decided to stay on the marina pontoon at Tobermory in the forecast 20-30mph winds. Going ashore would be much easier.

We tried to do some laundry but all the machines were very busy so we went for a walk to a nearby waterfall.

We returned to the boat for lunch and finally tackled the laundry. As ever, as soon as Sue had hung out the washing it tried to rain again. A quiet afternoon relaxing and successfully drying washing in between showers.

Wet, wet and wetter

We have been very lucky to have not had many days like this. The rain was so heavy. We did a few jobs on the boat in the morning, cleaning, blog writing etc. After lunch we visited Mull aquarium near to the harbour office. It is a catch and release aquarium where the creatures are released after up to four weeks, close to where they were found. They are all creatures that live in the Tobermory bay area. There were many varieties of starfish. They had several catfish which sleep for most of the day and hunt at night. (Which is why they are called catfish)

The whisky distillery tour was fully booked so we sheltered in a nearby bar. We wandered further along the harbour and found a pub that was showing the Wimbledon final. There was a great atmosphere. We chatted to a couple who had sailed a lot around these parts. They recommended that we should visit Coll.

Winds W 1-2 Grey then brighter

The Isle of Coll is west of Mull with a population of around 160. Thirteen miles in length and four miles across. We arrived in time for a quick lunch on board after picking up a mooring. We had not used the dingy since we were at Lulworth cove, many weeks ago. We motored ashore and tied up to a quay. We started walking towards the North of the island but the air started to feel cooler and damper so we walked along the hamlet of Arinagour. Many places were closed but we were able to retreat into The Coll Hotel.

The weather started to improve during the afternoon. We waited for the shop to open, for a few supplies, while sitting in the sheltered sunshine of the hotel garden.

We returned to the Coll hotel, via an easier quay, for a very good evening meal. Sitting in the bar were the couple who had recommended Coll the day before.

Wind E 1 Sunny

Staffa (meaning Pillar Island in old Norse) is an uninhabited island 6 miles off the coast of Mull.

“Its hexagonal columns were formed millions of years ago by volcanic eruptions and a vast blanket of lava that spread into the Atlantic Ocean. Years of waves crashing against these columns created the magnificent Fingal’s Cave.” The acoustics of Fingal’s Cave inspired Mendelssohn to compose his Hebrides Overture https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/staffa

We did not anchor off Iona because it can have poor holding. Bull Hole was a fantastically quiet spot. After anchoring and lunch we walked to the ferry port at Fionnphort and took a short ferry ride over to Iona.

Iona is a small, peaceful island off the Ross of Mull. It is 3 miles long and 1.5 miles wide with a permanent population of 170. We walked around the old Nunnery and past Iona Abbey.

The beautiful white sand beaches reminded us of Scilly.

We decided to continue walking along the coast. All was fine until we started to run out of beach and headed inland. In the summer we often walk in walking sandals. On Iona the footpaths were hard to find and underfoot was wet, soggy moss and peat, even on higher ground. Our online walking maps were useless and it took us ages, up and down soggy bog to get back to the road.

After washing our feet, sandals and legs in the sea we headed back to the ferry. Then a slightly muddy walk to our peaceful anchorage for a swim, shower and evening meal.

Winds W 2 Sunny but cool breeze

Colonsay and Oronsay are an island pair North of Islay and South of Mull. They are 10 miles by 2 miles. After lunch we ventured ashore. We checked maps and it looked like a short walk on a footpath to the road. We decided to wear sandals again.

The footpath? A little soft underfoot : (

Dun Eibhinn on the skyline opposite this plaque is all that remains of an 11th century fort. A seat of viking power in the Western Isles

It is a picturesque Island but similar to Coll, to reach other interesting parts of it, in the time we had, we would have needed a bike or a car. Also most places of interest were closed after lunch. A lovely place to spend a few days if you have road transport. We found the Colonsay hotel for a drink in the sun. A slightly better route back to the beach and our dingy, gave us amazing views of our mooring and the harbour.

Although we have had typical Scottish weather, we have enjoyed this part of our journey. In the right clothing we could still enjoy the beautiful scenery. But would certainly wear my walking boots more often.

Inspiring quote that popped up online this week. Not had trade winds mostly light breezes in our sails : )

‘Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do, so throw off the bowlines, sail away from safe harbour, catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore, Dream, Discover.’

Mark Twain

Hope Maisie agrees

Wind 1 Variable Calm and cloudy

We left Lossiemouth early as we were in a shallow mud berth and wanted to avoid getting stuck. It was a beautiful calm morning but as we approached the main channel Richard suddenly decided to go for a swim……….

We gently continued along the Moray Firth to Inverness. It seemed different seeing land both sides of us. For so long we have just had land on our port side (left side when facing forwards towards bow of boat).

We decided to have a wander into Inverness. It was a little further than we realised but was good to stretch the legs. Despite the rain we saw attractive old buildings and river views of Inverness. We sheltered in Victoria market during one downpour, then enjoyed a quick drink in a cosy bar before returning to the marina.

We bought our licence online to enable us to enter the Caledonian canal the next day. It costs £22.35 per metre (we are 10.7m) and includes locks, bridges, mooring and use of facilities for 7 nights. scottishcanals.co.uk

Wind 1 Variable.

7 Locks 3 Swing bridges

The Caledonian Canal was completed in 1822 by Scottish engineer Thomas Telford. It connects the East and West coasts between Inverness and Corpach.

Length of natural lochs 61.16km (38 miles)

Length of canal cuttings 35.4km (22 miles)

Total length of canal 96.56 km (60 miles)

29 lochs and 11 bridges

We contacted Clachnaharry Sea Lock by VHF radio to confirm our booking for midday and motored around to the entrance. We were given instructions regarding the order we should enter and side of the lock. We were third to enter and tied up Port side. The first hurdle was having to throw the ropes up to the lock keeper. The walls feel very high when throwing a heavy rope. He hooked us onto the side of the lock and passed the rope back down to us. We had to then hold it firm as the lock began filling with water. We were lucky not being at the front of the lock where the water can get quite swirly.

After passing through a second lock we had a quick lunch on board at Seaport Marina. After the lock keepers had finished their lunch break we passed through the swing bridge and the 5 locks at Muirtown.

Emerging from the locks we had swapped bleak grey seascapes for a gentler pastoral landscape. We arrived at Dochgarroch just in time to grab a gelato ice cream before the shop closed at 5pm. We had a really peaceful nights sleep (apart from 3:30 when Maisie woke us to be lifted onto our bed). : )

Wind Variable

0 Bridges 1 lock 2 lochs

The friendly lock keeper was quite flexible about when we could enter the lock. We radioed him in the morning and passed through at about 9:15am. The lock keeper gave Sue some rope throwing tips so she’s hoping to be able to throw the rope to the top of the wall first time at the next lock. He warned us about a yacht that had run aground near a weir in Loch Dochfour. They had gone to the wrong side of the lateral buoy. He had no idea when they would be floated again as there is no tide in the canal. It’s worth noting that when travelling East to West on the Caledonian canal the green buoy should be to your left and red to your right.

The English Channel is about 70-90 metres deep.

Loch Ness maximum length is 36.2km (22.5 miles) and 2.7km (1.7 miles) maximum width. It is the largest lake by volume in the UK (7.30km³). At the southern end of Loch Ness is Fort Augustus. We tied up there for the night.

We have learnt a lot about different washing machines during our sailing trip. At Fort Augustus there was a top loader machine which we couldn’t get to work. Thankfully the lock keeper gave the lid a good slam and it started. By then it was too late to cook so we managed to catch up the laundry while enjoying a beer and an evening meal in the pub. Richard will be volunteering to do the washing when we get home.

Wind calm and irrelevant. Weather initially wet then blue skies and sunshine.

3 bridges and 7 locks and 1 loch

Wind still irrelevant. Weather sunny start then rain.

0 bridges 1 lock and 1 loch

We had a relaxed start enjoying a leisurely breakfast in the sun. We travelled through the lock at South Laggan at 9:50. No need to worry about throwing ropes as the water level is high from now on when we enter the lochs. Down hill to Loch Lochy.

Arriving at Gairlochy around midday we had a little walk and chatted to an engineer from Scottish Canals. Richard was keen to talk about the lovely Gordon Setter the engineer had with him. The engineer mentioned he had been fixing the bridge that morning. We found this disconcerting because a few weeks ago the bridge had been closed for 5 days. https://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/fp/news/highlands-islands/5875210/gairlochy-swing-bridge-closed-caledonian-canal/

In the afternoon the first group of boats proceeded through the lock and bridge. We then made our way into the lock with other waiting boats. It is a fairly deep lock, the lock keeper said the water level dropped by 12 feet. When we were at the bottom of the lock the gates opened but we were asked not to move forward until the swing bridge had opened.

They were having difficulties opening the swing bridge. After two hours of waiting in the lock the gates were closed and the lock was refilled with water. We all had to reverse out and tie back up to the pontoons. They would try to fix the bridge in the morning. The controls for the bridge had been updated in 2021 so that they could be controlled electronically. Today the controls had kept showing an error notice.

Fortunately we had planned to eat on board in the evening, but the tea and chocolate chip cookie supplies were becoming a bit desperate.

Wind doesn’t matter in a lock. Weather dull and wet

Number of locks and bridges? Read on ….

We all waited patiently listening to VHF channel 74 from 8am onwards. At 11:30 we were amongst the first group of boats asked to enter the lock.

We could have continued with the group of boats from Gairlochy down Neptune’s staircase. Unfortunately Maisie had an appointment at Nevis vets for her blood test.

It was worthwhile not cancelling Maisie’s vet appointment. In four weeks her weight has increased by nearly 1 kg. Her condition score is now a healthier 3. : )

In the evening we had a bad meal at The Moorings Hotel, don’t recommend, we should have checked the reviews first.

So locks today 2 and bridges 2

Neptunes staircase is a dramatic flight of eight locks in the village of Banavie. In the shadow of Ben Nevis the lock lowers the canal by 19m (62 feet) in 0.4km (quarter of a mile). It takes an average 90 minutes to navigate the locks.

The lock keeper was chatting to all of the waiting boats from 8am onwards. A large square rigger entered the first lock and proceeded down two flights. We then entered the top lock with 5 other boats. We had a yacht rafted on Captiva for the entire journey to the sea.

At the bottom of Neptune’s staircase we had to wait for a yacht that was going to make the journey upwards before they opened the bridge. Suddenly there were cascades of water behind us.

Corpach Sea Lock is on the side of Loch Linnhe (a tidal sea loch). We motored past Fort William to Loch a Choire. Richard pumped up the dingy (we last used it in Lulworth Cove) and we anchored for the night. A little too wet to go ashore.

Wind NNW 4-1 Cloudy

Arbroath has a lock into the harbour that only opens 3 hours either side of high tide. It was closing at 1:30 that afternoon and not reopening until the next day. There would have been nowhere to moor nearby so we departed from Eyemouth at 3:30 in the morning. We had a good sail for most of the journey except for the last two hours and arrived at 12.30.

After lunch we did some laundry then had a wander around the town.

Wind Southerly 2 light and sometimes variable

We left Arbroath at 8:30 and had a slow but gentle motorsail, arriving at Stonehaven at 4:30pm

Carron Fish bar story https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-north-east-orkney-shetland-33588382

We only had a short time in Stonehaven, but, mars bars apart, it had some nice little eateries, a 50m heated outdoor pool, a pretty seafront and friendly harbour. It was a useful stopping off point about halfway between Arbroath and Peterhead.

Winds 2-7 NW and W. Cloudy with rain showers

We left Stonehaven at 8:30AM. We were advised by the yacht that rafted on to us that it was best not to leave too early to enable us to take advantage of the better tides nearer to Peterhead.

It was a little bit brighter but still windy. We did some chores and managed to keep the washing attached to the boat for long enough to dry it. (The marina tumble dryer decided to stop working).

Late afternoon we walked to the cinema in Peterhead to see the new Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny film. Hard not to admire octogenarian Harrison Ford in this action packed film, and Phoebe Waller-Bridge was enjoyable as con-artist Helen Shaw. The film critics don’t seem to like it but if you enjoyed the first few films of the franchise, this is very much in the same style. It was a nostalgic and entertaining two hours.

The Hollywood Reporter review summary https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/movies/movie-news/indiana-jones-5-review-roundup-1235495961/

We thought we would have a bite to eat after the movie but the only place the harbour master could suggest was “spoonies” (The Cross Keys which is the local Wetherspoons). It was our cheapest meal out, two meals and two pints for £15. Richards small fish and chips was quite good.

We decided to stay another day in Peterhead to allow the winds to subside further and to check Captiva’s batteries. There was no electric hook up in Stonehaven and when sailing spectacularly on Saturday without the engine, the autohelm kept going to standby because of insufficient voltage in the house battery. The batteries are 5 years old so we have decided to buy some new ones. An engineer visited us and hopes to meet us in Whitehills with the new batteries.

After meeting the engineer we wandered to the tourist hotspot of Peterhead, the Prison Museum. HMP Peterhead operated between 1888 and 2013 and was the most notorious prison in Scotland. It was a grim but interesting place to visit.

https://peterheadprisonmuseum.com/

We wandered further along the road to a small village called Boddam where Mr Google said we might find a good lunch. We enjoyed a large fish pie each in The Bistro restaurant of the Seaview hotel. We caught a bus back to Peterhead, replenished our food supplies before returning to Captiva.

Winds 1-3 NW Grey with rain showers

We left Peterhead at 6AM, a little later than other boats, although we now know why they chose to leave earlier (more later). There was a swell as we travelled North which made the going a little uncomfortable. Maisie had to be in her cabin for the first few hours. The good winds enable us to make good progress and we had the benefit of the tide with us.

Coast Peterhead to Rattray and Kinnaird Heads

Once we had gone around Rattray and Kinnaird heads the swell and winds started to ease. We had left the North Sea and were in The Moray Firth. We have now reached the most Northerly part of our journey around Britain. We shall now be heading South and West (homeward bound).

Walking around we got chatting to a fellow sailor from the Netherlands, who had also just arrived from Peterhead. Over a beer or two we found out he is sailing around the North Sea from The Netherlands via the British East coast to Norway then home again.

Winds 1 Easterly Fortunately felt a little warmer than the forecast of 13 degrees, cloudy with rain showers

So…….

We intended to leave at 7:30 but as we tried to turn in the harbour we ran aground. Fortunately the crew on Hereward (Rose and friend) helped us to pull Captiva back towards their boat and then we turned her around using ropes. Apparently the corner of the harbour silts up with sand. A coffee and wait for the tide to increase (low tide 8:10AM) was muted but with a depth on the charts of 1.5 metres we decided to try to leave (now 7:50AM). We comfortably turned out of the harbour this time and then……….

We ran aground again!!

We were unable to throw a rope ashore to the harbour wall to Hereward crew, so the lovely Rose fetched her wetsuit and took a rope ashore for us. By this time the harbour master had arrived and between them all we managed to tie up to the harbour wall then gradually pull ourselves along the wall. By 8:45 we were afloat again and quietly left Whitehills.

Lesson learnt, always chat to the lovely harbour masters, who are very friendly and keen to share good advice. He was suprised that we got stuck with our depth of 1.5 metres but they have a lot of sand movement.

A relieved Richard

We arrived at Lossiemouth near to high tide. The harbour is relatively shallow (0.4m above mud at low tide) so we shall be carefull with our timings : )

The engineer arrived with the new batteries and they were quickly installed. We then had a wander around lovely Lossiemouth, a pretty town with long sandy beaches.

We are recognising boats from other harbours we have visited on the East coast. A consequence of there being fewer yachts in this area. It is great catching up with people and getting tips about the places we plan to visit. We had a good meal out this evening with the gentleman from the Netherlands (We think his name is a Dutch version of Dave?) The restaurant was the Salt Cellar and we all had Aberdeen Angus steak. Richard and Dave had theirs with haggis.

Wind NE 2-3 Mostly sunny

We left Grimsby at 7am. We did not get much help from the wind as it was on our nose and we mostly motored for the entire 12 hour journey. Fortunately the seas were very calm so we just relaxed in the sun. There were lots of seabirds, razor bills, guillemots and puffins, near Flamborough head.
The times for coming in and out of Scarborough are plus or minus 2 hours around high tide. Initially the harbour master wasn’t certain that he had a space. We were tied onto a ladder on the harbour wall while he took Richard to check for spaces. We had hoped to arrive by 6pm but it was 7:30 before we were tied up in the marina. Fortunately we had eaten during the journey, so once we were settled in the marina we had a quick walk along Scarborough seafront.

We had arranged to meet Richard’s cousin Rachel and her two children Sadie and Ethan.

After they had explored the boat we walked up the hill to Scarborough castle.

After that we were ready for a lunch with fish and chips followed by ice cream.

We said our goodbyes after a lovely day. We walked a little further along the coast to North Bay.

Visually the coastline, buildings, harbour and beaches of Scarborough could compete with any along the south coast. There are good transport links and it is not too cut off from major towns and cities (some quite affluent). But the seafront is an endless line of empty amusement arcades and fun-fair rides with every restaurant claiming to be the best fish and chip shop.

Early evening walk, tacky seafront beside lovely South Bay beach

Saturday and Whitby

Winds SW 0-4 variable Sunny

We left Scarborough about 8am (plus or minus 2hours around high tide) hoping to arrive in time for the bridge opening in Whitby. We checked prior to leaving with the harbour master at Whitby and he said we had until 10:50. We arrived at 10:30 just as the bridge was closing. He said (rather bluntly) that it would not reopen until 18:00.

Fortunately we were able to moor at the holding pontoon. Apart from the very high ladder to reach the quay this worked fairly well and enabled us to explore Whitby.

It was a very warm and sunny Saturday in a bustling Whitby. A characterful place, with a combination of historic architecture and superb landscape. We initially wandered around the thronging streets on the right side of the harbour. There was a greater choice of eateries and more interesting shops compared to Scarborough.

We then crossed the aforementioned bridge to wander the cobbled narrow streets. We climbed the 199 steps (I counted 201?) to St Marys Church and Whitby Abbey.

Inside the church there is a notice saying “Please do not ask staff where Dracula’s grave is as there isn’t one”. Sue has just finished rereading the Bram Stoker novel. Dracula meets his end in Transylvania, stake through the heart and turns to dust, so no grave.

A passage in the book reads “Then as the cloud passed I could see the ruins of the abbey coming into view, and as the edge of a narrow band of light as sharp as a sword-cut moved along, the church and churchyard became gradually visible………………….but it seemed to me as though something dark stood behind the seat where the white figure shone, and bent over it. What it was, whether man or beast, I could not tell”. Eeeeeeeek!

There is a good article about Bram Stokers inspiration for Dracula on the English Heritage website link here https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/whitby-abbey/history-and-stories/dracula/

it was a really hot day, so we walked back to the other side of the harbour and the beach. We had a refreshing dip in the sea. We returned to the boat at 5pm. There were two other yachts rafted on to us. They were locals and said that the harbour master was quite quick at opening and closing the bridge, and not always at the expected times. We all cast off and meandered up and down until the bridge opened enabling us to enter the marina.

Wind SE-NW (every direction) 2-6 Sunny then wet and very wet

We had Captiva tied up by 8:30pm, time to grab a quick takeaway meal in town.

After a leisurely breakfast and sorting the laundry we walked to Warkworth. A lovely village and castle.

We then hopped onto a bus to Alnwick. We visited the castle, which was used in some of the Harry Potter films.

We then visited Alnwick gardens

Wind 2 Southerly Grey skies and some rain, calm seas

We left Amble at 9am after refuelling. We had a leisurely motor sail in gentle southerly winds.

Video of the Farne Islands, unfortunately visibility not great so no pictures of Holy island and Lindisfarne

Eyemouth is predominantly a busy fishing harbour but the harbour staff were very welcoming. The weather forecast was for 90% rain after midday. We had a quick walk around Eyemouth town and restocked our food stores in the morning.

In the evening we had a short walk to the south side of the harbour. Back on the opposite side we had probably the best restaurant meal of our entire trip. Would really recommend Oblo Bistro in Eyemouth. Food and service fantastic. Sue had a sea bass, crayfish and mint pasta followed by mint chocolate cheesecake. Richard had haggis croquettes, meatballs, olives and chips followed by lemon posset. Lovely.

Richard was born in Musselburgh near Edinburgh. He lived in Edinburgh until he was 9 years old before moving to Bristol. We did some research and there are thirteen things you should never say to a person from Scotland https://www.trafalgar.com/real-word/13-things-never-say-person-from-scotland/

We are nearly half way through our journey around Britain. We are both feeling very relaxed. Sue has rediscovered sleep. Maisie has settled in to this new lifestyle. She usually wakes us up at sunrise (4:25) but tomorrow we leave Eyemouth at 3:30am. The tides are neaps and we have to be in Arbroath by 1:32pm for the locks………….. to be continued…

Wind 3 ENE Sunny

We left Southwold on a lovely sunny morning for the 3 hour journey to Lowestoft. The sea was relatively calm and we managed to sail most of the way.

We refilled with diesel and moored at the Royal Norfolk and Suffolk yacht club marina. This is located near to the Lowestoft harbour entrance. After lunch on board we wandered along the seafront. The beach is a fairly long strip of mostly fine, clean, golden sand. The town itself is looking rather neglected with lovely old buildings looking in need of some TLC and many empty shops. A recent Guardian article suggested that things are improving. https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2023/jun/15/lowestoft-suffolk-guide-short-break-places-to-visit

We did our boat chores a day earlier as we planned to sail to Wells next to sea on Saturday, where there are maybe fewer facilities. Jobs done we had a swim and sat in the sun on the quiet beach near to the harbour.

Lowestoft is the most easterly point in the UK so in the afternoon we walked to Ness point, which is near an industrial estate north of the harbour. Not as picturesque as Lands end (most westerly point of mainland England) and Lizard (most southerly point).

In the evening we enjoyed a nice meal in the yacht club.

We got up early planning to leave Lowestoft at 6am to catch the tides going into Wells next to sea. Richard went to start the engine and ………….

After several failed attempts, advice from nearby yachtsmen and Mr Google we contacted a marine engineer. Fortunately he was able to locate the problem and replace the cable that was the electrical supply to the glow plugs.

It was 4pm and much too late to catch the tide and arrive in daylight. We walked along the beach to the First Light Festival. This celebrates the midsummer solstice (which is really on the 21st this year) and Lowestoft being the first place in the UK to experience the sunrise. There was music, beer tents, arts and culture. We didn’t stay until dawn but enjoyed some music on the beach.

Winds ESE 1-5 Sunny

Thankfully the engine started first time and we motored gently out of Lowestoft harbour. Richard had studied the charts and tides very carefully and we were confident we could reach Wells within the necessary tide window, avoiding a very long sail to Grimsby.

The clue to why the entrance to Wells next to Sea is sometimes viewed as tricky is found in its name, it is not Wells on sea but next to sea. You have to navigate lateral buoys for over two miles and minus 1.5 hours either side of high tide to reach the town and visitor pontoons. The good news was that we timed our arrival perfectly and the deputy harbour master was really helpful. The Harbour Masters at Wells working hours are completely dictated by the tides. We arrived just in time for a quick evening meal in the Edinburgh Inn.

We had a wander around the town and replenished our food supplies. Very different late morning with the tide out when we walked along to the beach.

After a late lunch we had a walk around the lovely town and out along the coast path eastwards. We had our evening meal on board.

Winds ESE 2-3 Sun, cloud and two rain showers

We left Wells next to Sea at 7:45, with the high tide. We felt a bit more confident going out. It’s quite tricky, all these unknown harbours.

We had a good sail with helpful tides. There were a couple of heavy rain showers, Sue and Maisie sat down below and Richard sheltered under the spray hood. The joy of an auto helm. We had sunny spells too and arrived near Grimsby at 6pm, perfect timing once again, the lock was open into the marina.

A lovely warm sunny day to explore Grimsby. After walking to a nearby retail park to collect some supplies for Maisie we returned to the boat for coffee and lunch.

We returned to the retail park area to investigate the Grimsby Fishing Heritage Centre. It was an enlightening afternoon. The museum gave a history of the local fishing industry enriched by internal mockups of a fishing trawler and old Grimsby town. We stepped aboard the Ross Tiger fishing trawler for a guided tour by a retired fisherman. There were lots of anecdotes about his career from young man, to fishing during the cod wars and as Captain of a deep water trawler off Russia, Iceland and Greenland.

Wind 4-6 ENE Sunny

After a leisurely morning on land and a tasty bacon and egg brunch we untied at 1:30. It was an interesting exit from Dover harbour, we had to wait 15 minutes for cross channel ferries to enter and leave, more like leaving an airport. With the wind once again on our nose we tacked very close to the wind. A challenging sail with bumpy seas, but enjoyable sailing alongside Chris, whom we met in Eastbourne, on his boat Guinevere. We arrived in Ramsgate in time for an evening meal on board.

In the morning we took a windswept stroll along the coast to Margate. The Isle of Thanet has many sandy, blue flag beaches. After an 8 mile trek we felt we deserved a coffee and cake in the cafe at the Turner Centre. I lived the first 16 years of my life in Margate, it is great to see it recovering after years of decline.

After walking past interesting shops and the Tudor cottage we visited the shell grotto. We returned to Ramsgate by bus.

We completed our walk fairly quickly because in the afternoon we had to take Maisie to a vet in Broadstairs for her monthly blood test. She had her first ever ride on a bus. She was very good, didn’t scratch the vet or make a fuss. She sat calmly, intrigued by her new surroundings.

For me, Sue, a day of reunions.

After completing our boat chores in the morning we met up with two of my school friends and their partners. I hadn’t seen Jo and Carina for 44 years as I left school at 16 and moved with my Mum and brother to Northampton.

In the evening, another reunion. We met up with Dawn and her husband Paul for a curry in Ramsgate. I had met Dawn more recently when they visited Cornwall this spring (again after a break of 44 years). It was a lovely evening, we are enjoying catching up with people on our journey around Britain.

After stocking up for Mondays journey we walked along the coast to Broadstairs. The winds have at last dropped and the beaches were busy with people enjoying the warm sunshine.

We had lunch in The Charles Dickens pub with my cousins Margaret, Mark and Theresa and her husband Dave. A leisurely lunch, really great to catch up with family members living in Thanet.

We returned to Ramsgate by bus to meet with Becky and Nick. They joined us in the sunny cockpit for a cool drink.

A very busy and enjoyable few days, lots of memories. Was great to see everyone, thanks so much for meeting with us.

Winds 1-2 ENE Cloudy then sunny

We headed North from Ramsgate in very calm conditions. We saw very little marine traffic or wind. We gently motored towards Harwich, reaching Shotley marina late afternoon. We were too late to take the ferry over to Harwich, so we never set foot in Essex. We went for a walk along the riverbank at Shotley. It was a quiet little marina but you can hear sirens and clattering from the container port in Felixstowe, 3 miles away, day and night. We found an interesting link to Falmouth, the marina is home to an HMS Ganges museum. She was transferred as a boys training ship from Falmouth to Harwich harbour in 1899.

Winds 2-3 ENE Sunny

A little more wind enabled some sailing as we made our way further up the East coast. After sighting Sellafield nuclear power station in the distance, we turned into Southwold harbour. It seems strange to call it a harbour, it is like a river with a series of wooden platforms and pontoons scattered along its length. Many are private moorings, so we had to look carefully when trying to find the visitors pontoon. It was interesting turning the boat with the wind and tide but it is better to be facing the harbour entrance for an easier exit.

We took an afternoon stroll into Southwold across the flat East Anglian landscape. It is the first time we have visited this pretty seaside town. We enjoyed a massive blueberry gelato ice cream before strolling along the seafront. There were many good shops and we found a lovely delli selling interesting pies. They made a delicious evening meal on the boat.

Walking to Southwold

Southwold seafront

We wandered over the bridge to the other side of the river and enjoyed a walk to the lovely village of Walberswick. The shingle beach was bordered by sand dunes. The footpath turned inland, across heath and meadows following a river then into a mixed woodland. The path then looped back into the village where we had a coffee stop.

After lunch on board the boat we returned to Southwold via the river path towards the sea. After an afternoon snooze in the sand dunes we made our way back to the boat via the lovely town and green footpaths.

We had planned to visit Cowes before heading to Portsmouth. Leaving the pontoon at Yarmouth was quite tricky with blustery NE winds so as we neared Cowes after a very good sail, we decided to continue to Portsmouth in one hop. Was a good decision as we enjoyed a very touristy afternoon visiting HMS Warrior, HMS Victory and the Mary Rose exhibition.

We enjoyed a sunny drink at Gunwharf Quay so much that we had our evening meal there also.

HMS Warrior, Victory and Mary Rose

Wind 2-4 Cloudy then sunny

We had visited Brighton by land many times so chose to go to Shoreham as we had never been there before. After a cloudy start out of Portsmouth the sun soon broke through. It was quite a calm crossing with the engine going most of the time. We had our first view of an offshore wind farm, probably the first of many. An interesting harbour entrance at Lady Bee Marina Shoreham. We briefly glimpsed a dolphin as we lined Captiva up with the power station chimney near the harbour entrance. We had to contact the harbour master for access to the sea lock, which is opened every half hour on request. Good practice for when we navigate the 29 locks of the Caledonian canal.

Entering Lady Bee Marina Shoreham

We had a 40 minute walk into Shoreham town from the marina on Saturday morning then walked along the Adur river. We met Gillian for lunch and Duncan for a late afternoon beer. It’s great meeting people we know who live near to the places we are visiting.

Wind 2-4 Sunny

A good sail, tacking close to the wind, able to switch off the engine. Varied coastline views of Brighton, Newhaven and dramatic chalk cliffs towards Beachy Head. Arrived mid afternoon at Sovereign marina, a modern marina with good facilities. We were able to tackle the laundry heap.

Later we met up with Ken and Judith, who lived in Northants then spent over 20 years sailing around the world. They now live in Bexhill and it was lovely to meet up with them again. We enjoyed a nice meal at a mediterranean style restaurant near the marina.

On Monday we enjoyed a stroll to Eastbourne along the promenade. We had a walk along the pier and coffee with scone and Cornish clotted cream (jam first of course). We took a ride on the big wheel enjoying the coastal views. Then a lovely lunch at Bistrot Pierre situated on the sea front (would recommend if you are visiting Eastbourne). A day of 21,000 steps each, so we earned the delicious lunch.

Tuesday was a long sailing day. There are no places to stop between Eastbourne and Dover. We departed from Eastbourne marina at 6am. A bright sunny day with the winds again on our nose.

We kept our distance from the end of Dungeness but still experienced lumpy seas. There were things flying around everywhere below decks. Fortunately Maisie had the good sense to hunker down in a safe corner in her cabin after a kilo of dried cat food rained over the cabin. She is the most amazing cat. After this 12 hour sail she was up and about and playing like nothing had happened. We are very proud of her. She seems to realise that if we lie in bed in the morning she is going to have a quiet day. When we are up and about early she seems to know she should lie down quietly in her cabin.

There were two other boats arriving from Eastbourne the same time as us. We were all quite relieved after navigating the lumpy seas at the entrance, to tie up our boats in the lovely new marina at Dover.

On Wednesday, after a good nights sleep and a slow start, we climbed the hill to Dover Castle. Sue had visited the castle many times, but it was Richard’s first visit. The castle has many layers of history. We started with the tour of the WW2 underground hospital and the Operation Dynamo centre which enabled the evacuation of more than 338,000 Allied soldiers from Dunkirk. Sue’s great grandfather served at Dover during WW2. It was obviously fortunate that the nuclear bunker built there in the 1960s was not needed, the chalk tunnel walls would not have protected the occupants from radioactivity anyway.

The oldest part of the castle is the Roman lighthouse which stands next to an Anglo Saxon Church. The Norman keep was built in the 1180s. It was adapted for modern warfare during the Napoleonic Wars. The castle remained a military site until the end of World War 2. It is now run by English heritage. More information http://historicengland.org.uk and http://www.english-heritage.org.uk.

Wind SSE 1-2 sunny

After finally completing the loading of the boat, a process that seemed a bit like moving house, we cast off from our life on land. We departed at midday on a bright sunny and calm day. There was barely any wind, we motored gently, easing Captiva out past St Anthony’s head towards Polperro.

Wind SE 3-4 Sunny

After a brief stroll around Polperro, we try to walk each day as life on board can be quite sedentary, we departed at 9:30 aiming for Salcombe. Due to the higher winds and the unfavourable direction we moored in Yealm. A stroll along the river and a leisurely visit to the Dolphin in Newton Ferrers before curry on board Captiva.

Wind NE 2-4 Sunny again 🙂

A day sail to Dartmouth in gentle winds that continue to be on our nose!*<?. We anchored to one side of the channel for a comfortable evening. A longer sail than previous visits but arrived in time for a walk and refreshments in the sunshine. Another meal on board enjoying the company of the brave Maisie cat.

W NE 2-4 Sunny!!!

An early departure from Dartmouth (5am) for the crossing of Lyme Bay, again with the wrong winds. Arrived in time for a swim from the boat. A very busy Lulworth cove as was bank holiday weekend. We went ashore to find food but everywhere was fully booked, ended up with battered gurnard and mounds of chips, the last servings from the takeaway kiosk.

We had a lovely walk to Durdle Door on Monday morning and a refreshing swim off the beach. We met John, Isabelle and Pippa for a continental style lunch. A lovely few hours at the Lulworth Cove Inn then a walk back to the cove for our return to Captiva.

Wind ENE 2-4 uggg but mostly sunny

We left at 8am after releasing our anchor from a rock, thinking that the tide would help to push us along. Unfortunately we reached St Alban Head too late and spent a couple of hours doing 1.5 knots.

Arrived at Yarmouth late afternoon. After refreshing shower ashore we had an unsuccessful search for an evening meal. We booked for the next evening.

Wednesday a morning walk around Yarmouth followed by lunch on board. We then walked the Robert Hooke Way to the pebbly beach at Freshwater Bay for a dip in the sea (cool and bruising to the feet), but a lovely afternoon.